Hello everyone, I am writing a series of articles on everything you need to know regarding drafting Battle Pack 3. A lot of my friends consider me to be quite knowledgeable in the field of drafting, and many others have asked for my assistance in drafting for the top 16 of a YCS. In these upcoming articles I will be explaining the top cards in the set, pick choices, drafting strategy, theory behind picking certain cards over others, and some other stuff I think is important too. I’ve talked to many players who were able to make it to the top 16 of a YCS and almost all of them knew almost nothing in the world of drafting. By reading these articles I hope to change that, because if the people you’re drafting with know what they are doing it adds a whole new level of complexity and mind games. This article will explain what is drafting and what goes on during a draft.
What is Drafting?
Drafting is when (usually 8) players sit in a circle and each have an equal amount of packs. For Battle Pack 3 it is usually 9 packs per player. Each player opens 3 of the packs and put them together to create one 15 card pack. Once everyone has their 15 card pack they look at it, pick the card they want for their deck (this is timed for YCS play, but if you are drafting casually you can take as long as you want). Once everyone picks a card each player passes the remaining 14 cards to the player on their left. then you pick a card from that stack for your deck and repeat this process until all of the cards are in the players’ deck. Then each player opens 3 more packs, creating a 15 card pack, picks a card and passes it to their right. This process repeats until there are 30 cards in each players deck. Finally the last 3 packs are opened and you go about it the way you did the first one, passing to the left. Each player should now have 45 cards and everyone gets time to create their deck. Since the deck minimum is 40, you can pick your 40 best cards and use the remaining cards as a side deck or you can play all 45 (or any number in between).
There are some cool rules that are added to battle pack draft to spice things up. The first special rule is that once per match you are allowed a mulligan. This is done by looking at your opening 5 cards and deciding if you want to keep them or not. If your hand isn’t so great you can put those 5 cards on the bottom of your deck and draw the top 5 cards of your deck, then shuffle your deck. This is really nice because no one likes starting the game with a poor hand. The second rule that the made for Battle Pack 3 is something that made many players happy. This rule is that all monster cards are all types at all times, in the hand, graveyard, deck, and banished zone. This adds a lot to drafting because some of the game’s coolest cards require a certain type of monster to use, this means if you were to draft a card like Mezuki early and you never saw any zombie type monsters you would be disappointed. This rule makes cards like Mezuki, Silent Psychic Wizard, Spined Gillman, and many more really cool to play with. This also allows them to put more cards in the set, because without this rule they would surely run out of good cards to put into the set.
Now that you know how to draft I am sure that you want to know how to draft the best possible deck. This is actually much more difficult than it seems, many of the players who I’ve spoken to just want to know a “pick list” where the best cards are listed numerically of equity. While many would think that the card I consider to be the best card in Battle pack 3 should be picked over any card at any given scenario is completely wrong. Just like in constructed decks, you want your deck to be very versatile and have a wide variety of cards and effects. This would mean that if your deck is mostly monsters and you get passed a pack that contains the number one card in the set which happens to be a monster, the number three card which happens to be a monster, and the number six card that is a spell; It would be correct to take the spell in that scenario. That being said, I would try to prioritize good spells and traps over good monsters, because good spells and traps are typically harder to come by and if your deck is all monsters you are likely to lose. This however does not mean to take every spell and trap instead of monsters either, because without monsters you can’t attack to win the game. In an ideal draft my deck would contain something along the lines of 20 monsters 5 spells and 15 traps. I decided on this ratio because the traps in Battle Pack 3 can get you a lot of value, but you’ll often need high quality spells to combat going second or not having a trap previously set.
Do I Go First of Second?
This is a question I’ve debated with several people and I’ve never come to choose one being superior to the other 100% of the time. Choosing to go first or second will likely depend on the cards in your deck, and the contents of you opponent’s deck. Going first gives you the luxury of setting your traps first and getting the first successful summon. Going second gives you an instant plus one on your opponent, but you might not be able to use that advantage if they summoned a large monster and set a trap that prevents you from destroying it by battle. If my deck were full of traps, I’d probably go first every time, but if I had a lot of spells and not so many traps, I’d probably go second.
That’s all I’ve got to say on this article, but in my next article I will be talking about the best monsters for Battle Pack 3, their value, the categories they fall into, and the “pick list” for monster cards.